Tuesday, March 9, 2010

J.Crew is Doin' Alright {as in "cha-ching!"}

Today's conference call with J.Crew has been nicely summed-up over at the Wall Street Journal (click here).
WSJ UPDATE: J Crew Swings To 4Q Profit On Higher Margins
By Elizabeth Holmes
March 9, 2010
Of THE WALL STREET JOURNAL

J.Crew Group Inc. (JCG), purveyor of oft-copied applique T-shirts and ruffled tank tops, swung back into the black in its fiscal fourth quarter and posted full-year profits that surpassed prerecession levels.

The New York company, led by well-known merchant Millard "Mickey" Drexler, resuscitated its gross margin in the fourth quarter by tightening inventory controls and cutting back on discounts.

The result was a profit of $40.4 million, or 61 cents per share, compared with a loss of $13.5 million, or 22 cents a share, a year earlier. For the three months ended Jan. 30, total revenue rose 19% to $460.6 million. Sales at stores open at least a year rose 17%, which erased the 13% decline seen in the same period a year earlier.

With solid results in pocket, Drexler is looking afresh at expanding his fleet. J.Crew, which also operates the denim-focused Madewell brand, will open 15 stores this year and says opportunities in real estate are improving.

"We're looking at real estate much more seriously again for growth," Drexler said Tuesday on a conference call with analysts. Drexler also spoke much more favorably about international growth than he has in the past, revealing that the company has been looking for opportunities.

J.Crew's profit for the year rose to $123.4 million, up from $54.1 million a year earlier and $97.1 million for fiscal 2007. The company's outlook for the current quarter and year were better than Wall Street analysts had expected. Shares were down 14 cents in after-market trading at $46.85.

J.Crew's popular offerings have bred a slew of copycat merchandise. The embellished graphic T-shirts and tank tops that J.Crew sold last spring, as well as its chunky accessories, were echoed by mall retailers including AnnTaylor Stores Corp.'s Loft division and Gap Inc.'s Old Navy brand.

For spring, retailers with different age targets, including women's retailer Coldwater Creek Inc., have a J.Crew vibe, says Ann Poole, retail analyst with Stephens Inc.

"J.Crew's merchandise has lost a little bit of its luster due to an abundance of knock-off product in the mall," says Poole, adding that it would need to "push the fashion envelope further and provide more newness in its collections to remain ahead of the competition."

The issue is weighing on Drexler. Earlier this year, he said, he called the heads of three competitors selling similar products and suggested they cut the salaries of their creative staffs.

"They weren't too happy," he said at a conference in California in mid- January. On Tuesday, he said, "As we look at the long term, you just have to out-product your competitors."

One would-be competitor dropped out Tuesday. American Eagle Outfitters Inc. announced that it has decided to close its long-struggling Martin + Osa brand. The 28-store chain targeted 20-somethings and was designed to compete with J.Crew and Gap Inc.'s Banana Republic.

American Eagle said the chain lost $44 million after taxes in fiscal 2009 and doesn't "warrant further investment." Its stores should all be shut by the end of the fiscal second quarter, resulting in pretax charges of as much as $106 million for American Eagle.

J.Crew, meanwhile, continues to expand. The company announced last month that it is testing international waters. In May, J.Crew product will appear on Net- a-Porter.com, a London-based online retailer that sells primarily designer and contemporary women's apparel.

Net-a-Porter sells to customers in over 150 countries, a far wider reach than the current J.Crew ecommerce sales in North America and Japan. J.Crew said it will offer a limited portion of its assortments on the Web site, as well as create a small range of product exclusively for Net-a-Porter. One hope is that the Web site's fashion cachet will rub off. "Hanging out with all those other people will show well for us," Drexler said, speaking of designers, such as Prada and Jimmy Choo, that appear on the site.
Great {financial} news for J.Crew! They had a stellar performance, which is clearly being rewarded. This article had all sorts of juicy bits to read. The following are a few of my thoughts...
  1. J.Crew is raking it in!
  2. I totally have noticed that other retailers are copying J.Crew's style. Sometimes I will see an add for Banana Republic, Ann Taylor, or even Talbots, and think to myself that it eerily resembles something from J.Crew.
  3. The following quote stood out for me: "push the fashion envelope further and provide more newness in its collections to remain ahead of the competition". I am always excited to see what new items J.Crew will roll-out. They always manage to entice me with several of their latest offerings. However, a part of me is worried a bit that J.Crew will become so fashion-forward that it will leave me behind.
  4. When I read the line about Mickey calling the competitors... dayum! Don't mess with Drex! Loves it!
  5. Sad to hear Martin + Osa isn't going to make it.
What are your thoughts on the results? Any tidbits in the article that you found particularly interesting? If so, please share! :)

23 comments:

  1. Awesome article, very fun to read through. Thanks for posting! But Alexis, NEVER feel like forward fashion is something that could leave you behind...you just pick up your britches, keep up, and everybody's the wiser ;)

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  2. HDNB: Aw thanks for the nice comment! :) Also, I *would* pick up my J.Crew-labeled britches in the hopes no one would notice. ;)

    Heidi: I kind of thought the same thing. Several JCAs have mentioned that some of J.Crew's handbags are eerily similar to higher end designer bags. So I don't know...

    But that line was great reading it. A lot of spice that I wasn't expecting to see. And Mickey is passionate about J.Crew, which I respect. :)

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  3. I'm SO SO SO upset about Martin and Osa! It is favorite store. :-(

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  4. "The issue is weighing on Drexler. Earlier this year, he said, he called the heads of three competitors selling similar products and suggested they cut the salaries of their creative staffs."

    This line does nothing to raise Mickey in my eyes since I have seen some J Crew items that were shameless "replicas" of designer merchandise. Wow! What an egotistical...

    Also, I hope J Crew doesn't get any further ahead of the fashion curve as I want their items to remain wearable and a lot of what they have produced this year was just too wierd to have a place in my wardrobe. I love J Crew, but I still want their classics with a twist.

    Thanks for the article Alexis. I enjoyed reading it.

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  5. I, too, worry about J. Crew getting too ahead of the curve. Last thing we need is more stick jeans and/or weird items that only look good on Jenna or her XXS or size 0 brethren. I love Crew but it needs to remain wearable. 'Classic with a twist' is a great way to describe. Mickey -- you need to dance with the ones that brung you!

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  6. Great Article! Thanks for Sharing Alexis. Sounds like I should be buying J Crew stock and less embellished tees! I also think it was a bit bold of Mickey to call his competitors as they all seem to copy each other on so many items- not sure that was called for.

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  7. OT if anyone would like a Lands End promo code, 25% off highest price item plus free shipping, I won't be using this one, expires the 11th ...

    PROMO CODE: MArch 11
    PIN:07688326

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  8. I constantly read comments that say oh, J. Crew has to be fashion forward to keep doing well and it's not that people who have loved J. Crew for a long time mind the fashion forward, we mind J. Crew being fashion forward and abandoning quality.

    I'm glad J. Crew is doing well but to long time lovers of the brand, it's no secret they're doing well because they cut their own people's salaries, they've made numerous downgrades in quality, and they've attracted a set of recessionistas who don't mind paying $150 for a disposable cashmere sweater because even though they can afford the $300+ stuff it's not vogue to spend like crazy anymore.

    I want the brand to stay alive and flourish but it becomes harder to buy from them when my purchases become crewlette. I sort of hate that they're doing so well on one hand because it tells them it's ok to keep shortchanging their long time customers who have come to expect quality. I still love the design aspect but can shop there less and less. I can't spend money on disposable wares. And even if I had the money, I'm just not that wasteful.

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  9. I am not too surprised about M&O; a lot of their stuff was pretty blah.

    I'm glad JC is doing well; now that they have survived the recession I wonder if this will allow them to expand some of their size ranges (i.e. more petites, talls, 00s and 14/16s???)

    I agree that calling the competitors is obnoxious and hypocritical, and would caution against pushing the envelope too far. JC is not a couture designer that can sell one or two crazy pieces per season--they still need to have mass appeal!

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  10. I'm sorry to hear that Martin+Osa is closing as well.

    nomoneyfun, I completely agree with your post. Every time I read an article like this, I feel like J. Crew has even less incentive to improve their quality or revert back to their more classic roots.

    As far as pushing the fashion envelope, I don't think J. Crew is nearly as fashion-forward as Drexler and Lyons think it is. Some of the pieces - like the ruffles and the endless permutations of skinny jeans - feel trendy without being particularly fresh. I find myself wishing Frank Muytjens designed for Womens.

    And if Jenna wants to stray away from preppy, can we see more of Phillip Lim and Marni (her purported influences) and less of Erin Wasson?

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  11. kitsmommy- Totally agree with you about Drexler.

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  12. It's a soundbite quote, but it does sound quite egotistical. I hope Drexler & Crew realize how valuable the employees are. The personal service I experience is a large reason that keeps me coming backk .

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  13. J Crew is not fashion forward ( how many seasons we have had seen ruffles?), you can find their styles just about anywhere now with similar quality. All the stores are copying the fashions on the runway incl JC.

    I am sad about M&O, they truly had good quality clothing.

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  14. Thanks for the read. I have to say living in Canada I'm happy I've found JCrew. We pay a lot more for less quality here - in fact I think I read that we pay 30% more for everything. Do I love everything - no...sometimes I find the cut a bit "boxy" and the styling doesn't quite match the garments in reality but overall this is a retailor that offer great products for a fair price.

    I want them to push the fashion envelope. Being fresh doesn't always mean it isn't wearable. I think the main reason I like JCrew is there is a stylist's eye (Jenna I guess) in the catalogues, website, etc. I want them to push the fashion envelope so I can sprinkle these pieces in with the classics...just like I do with designer pieces.

    In regards to the call to competitors...I LOVE THIS! He's not asleep at the wheel like some CEO's. After receiving a call from him personally I am really taken back that a CEO would take the time / interest to call a customer back...and within an hour no less. When I emailed to thank him...he replied, "You're welcome...always here to help".

    Just my Canadian 2 cents ;o)

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  15. oooh i just checked my JCG stock and it is up! yay! :)

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  16. i LOVE love love that Mickey put it out there that he's mad about being knocked off. i've wondered how long he'd sit there and take it. i'd be mad as hell if it was my product that was being copied and devalued the way theirs is, especially considering how much they mus pay Jenna 'creative guru' Lyons! Bad enough the prices are all jacked to fund her salary, so in reality we're the ones paying her salary....lol.

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  17. I do think the Mickey quote is pretty darn funny - but most of fashion is derivative anyway - of another designer, another era, whatever... But boy, that takes balls!

    Re: M+O closing - oh, KDot, I feel for you b/c I know they are such a fave of yours...but is it wrong that I'm thinking "hmmmm, closeout deals?" Probably.

    gigiofca is so right about the employees - I wouldn't keep coming back if it weren't for the great SAs at my B&M.

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  18. I wonder if Karl Lagerfeld called Mickey & suggested the same thing after seeing the tweed dauphine jacket?

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  19. Heidi, I've been thinking of the possible good deals as well. I'll be stocking up for sure!

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  20. Honestly, how does Drexler get his huge head through the door in the morning? :P J.Crew copies so much from other designers, Jenna Lyons is always at NY fashion week, taking notes no doubt.

    Maybe the fact that they did so well in Q4 is the reason for the multiple recent promos. If so, keep it up.

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  21. I've noticed the same thing as Casual-Crew: all the stores are copying the runway fashions, including JCrew. If you only shop JCrew, you might believe their designs are unique and ahead of the curve, but that's rarely the case.

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  22. I think it's awesome that they will be in Net-a-Porter! And I think what Drexler did speaks to his leadership-that is great!

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  23. I'm chuckling at ol' Millard. What he could do is expand the size ranges and have them in stores, but I doubt that will happen. So I'll continue finding things that work for me.

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